There were no direct trains from the city of Khiva to our new destination, Bukhara, Uzbekistan. Instead, we took a shared taxi the 5 hours east. I was dreading making the long, bumpy drive crammed in the back seat of a rusty 1962 Lada squeezed between three old Uzbek men headed in the same direction.

As it turned out, the drive wasn’t as horrible as the Lonely Planet forums had led me to believe. A new highway, and I use that term very loosely, has been built that takes you half the way between the cities of Khiva and Bukhara. From there the next road makes it feel like you are riding right through the middle of the desert. The sand seems to be overtaking the road, leaving only one-lane to drive on.

As we flew past the barren landscape, the odd person selling shashlik and kurt on the side of the road, the sand lapped at our tires.

It was a welcome relief once we finally made it to Bukhara and our beautiful hotel, Lyabi House. The hotel was right off the main gathering point of the city which shares the same name, Lab-I Hauz, and in Persian means “by the pond”.

What to Do in Bukhara

Given its placement along the Silk Road, Bukhara once existed as one of the main centers of the world for trade, arts and religion. During the Golden Age Bukhara became the intellectual center of the Islamic world, one of the seven holy cities of Islam. Like many other cities though, Bukhara was conquered by Gengiz Khan and burned during the Mongol era.

There is a lot to see in Bukhara – hint: there is more beautiful blue and turquoise tile to see in Buhkara like in the other Uzbek cities of Khiva and Samarkand. 

I’d recommend giving Bukhara atleast two days for solid exploring!

• Lyabi-Hauz Ensemble: Until modern day, Bukhara was covered with canals and ponds. They were central gathering points for people and the city’s main water source, where people would come together, talk, drink and wash themselves. Because of the communal nature, the dirty water quickly spread disease throughout the city. Bukhara had many different plagues, leaving the average life span at only 32. In the 1920s the Soviets filled many of the ponds, leaving Lab-I Hauz because of its vicinity to beautiful architecture.
• Poi Kalyan Complex: This complex consists of 4 monuments: Kalyan mosque and Miri-Arab Madrasah, which face eachother. Between them is the Kalyan minaret and then there is also the small Amir-Allimkhan Madrasah.
• Bolo Hauz Mosque: Built in the 1700s this was the mosque of the Emir. The carved wooden columns inside the mosque are truly stunning!
• Ark Citadel: Near to the Bolo Hauz complex is the Ark Citadel, which is Bukhara’s most ancient site. It was the residence of the Bukhara local rulers and khans. It is believed to date back to the 4th century B.C.
• Chor Minor: translated as “four minarets”, Chor Minor is a madrasah located behind the Lyabi-Hauz complex.
• Chor-Bakr Necropolis (“City of the Dead”): This was built over the burial place of Abu-Bakr-Said, who was one of the four of Abu-Bakrs, descendants of Muhammad. It is one of Bukhara’s most sacred places.
• Ulugh Beg Madrasah: Ulugh Beg was an accomplished astronomer and mathematician, and he was the grandson of Amir Temur. This Madrasah was constructed in his honor and, during its time, was one of the leading centres for learning.
• Emir’s Palace: Located 3 miles north of the city, this was the kitschy summer country palace of the last Emir of Bukhara. The gardens aren’t kept in the best condition but the grounds and rooms within the house worth a visit.

Looking for a private tour around Bukhara? Check out Advantour!

Where to Stay

One of my favorite parts of Bukhara was the hotel we stayed in, Lyabi Hauz. Although the rooms are basic, the hotel has the most beautiful terrace to eat breakfast. It was such a perfect way to start each day! Other nice hotels include:

• Boutique Hotel Minzifa (from $40)
• Amelia Boutique Hotel (from $70)

Read Next:

20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Uzbekistan

The Great Silk Road: Khiva, Uzbekistan

A Guide to Visiting Zaamin National Park 

The Aral Sea